Today, I tested a whole bunch of Matiere Premiere perfumes, and ended up walking away with four mini bottles and two samples, so wanted to do some quick reviews of what I tried.
Matiere Premiere generally build their perfumes around one core note, with the other notes added to enhance the different aspects of that note. I really recommend checking out their website, the descriptions are super interesting.
They do a sample set, and all their perfumes come in 6ml, 50ml or 100ml, so a great house for anyone just getting into perfumes (especially niche) and trying to figure out what they like.
Vanilla Powder: as in the name, a dry, powdery vanilla. Not a particularly sweet or gourmand vanilla, not is it particularly revolutionary or unique. Vanilla done simply and done well. 4/5
French Flower: a beautiful creamy tuberose. I usually find tuberose quite screechy/loud, but this is beautiful, and projects in a way that feels heavy but not overpowering. 4.5/5
Crystal Saffron: synthetic, almost alien saffron. Similarities to BR540, but without the sweetness and floral notes. Intense projection and lasts forever. 4.5/5
Parisian Musc: while this is meant to be centred around musk, I actually found it to be the perfect creamy fig scent that I have been looking for. Definitely a green fig, but lacks the somewhat sharp greenness that I’ve found in other fig perfumes. 5/5
Neroli Oranger: bright and fresh neroli and orange blossom. Lovely summer floral. 4/5
Bois d’Ébène: cozy and woody, this is like a fresh, crisp forest on a winter’s morning. 4/5
Cologne Cédrat: refreshing citrus, but not particularly to my personal taste. Felt a little classical, a little masculine. I’d like to sample this again in the summer, and try it on skin. 2.5/5
Radical Rose: somewhat dark, somewhat jammy rose. Beautiful but classic ambery rose and patchouli. 3.5/5
Falcon Leather: soft, supple leather. Almost a little creamy. Liked it, but don’t know if I would wear it. Would also like to test this one on skin, however. 2.5/5
Santal Austral: I didn’t sample this one this time, but did smell it the last time I was in the shop. Very creamy sandalwood, I remember liking this a lot. 4/5
Encens Suave: a beautiful incense scent, with strong gourmand facets. A very full, round incense scent. 5/5
I ended up leaving with mini 6ml bottles of French Flower, Crystal Saffron, Parisian Musc and Bois d’Ébène. I also got samples of Radical Rose and Vanilla Powder. For the most part, they all smelled very similar on paper and on the skin. The only exception (out of those I tried on skin) was Encens Suave, which was more gourmand on paper, while the incense came through much stronger at first on skin. The only reason I didn’t pick up that one is because it’s very similar to Zoologist Squid, which I already own a full bottle of, although I probably prefer Encens Suave.